KRUG 1989 BRUT CHAMPGNE

The mingling of saline, nutty, and caramelized notes in the nose – adumbrating this wine’s entire performance – is gorgeous. Butter-toasted hazelnuts, dried wild mushrooms, kelp, and cocoa mingle in a silken, mouthwateringly saline and savory matrix reminiscent of oyster liquor laced with fresh lemon juice (because, there is still a youthfully citric store of energy here). This finishes with correspondingly pronounced umami and with tangy vibrancy of citrus and salt. After a day open, the nutty elements become more piquant and walnut-like, but the smoky hints of oxidation remain balanced by citric and mineral elements and positively integrated into a mysteriously diverse show. The palate becomes plusher (perhaps in part due to diminishing mousse) and creamy in an almost whipped-cream fashion, yet the long finish continues to offer uncanny refreshment.