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What a pity to drink a wine with such a future as this has. People are going to have to learn to lay down great Tokajis like vintage ports. Its flavors–brilliant, sumptuous and crystal clear as they are – are in their primary stage of development. But closed as it still is, tense with youth, the nose is already pungent with lanolin and marmalade over deep notes of coffee and loam. The intense sweetness is cut through with apple/quince acidity, which seizes the palate, almost stings, then hangs on and on with a flavor like baked Bramley apples. Still to come, apricots, floral notes, butterscotch. Each sip reveals a world of flavors. --Hugh Johnson